In the idyllic village of Hiriketiya in southern Sri Lanka, the team behind the award winning bar Smoke & Bitters (no. 29 Asia’s 50 Best Bars, 2024) are preserving a monumental part of Sri Lankan culture.
Raa is a brand new concept bar and kitchen launched by Don Ranasinghe and Lahiru Perera (Lalla) of Smoke & Bitters fame. Positioned as a Sri Lankan arrack bar and kitchen, Raa (which is the local term for Toddy) seeks to take guests back to the roots of Sri Lankan toddy shops and arrack culture but in reality, it does so much more. Located by the water’s edge at the tip of the scenic Hiriketiya bay, Raa is a treat for all the senses. As one watches waves crash on the shore and surfers try to ride the waves, only to yield to their gentle undulations, the tall palms cast long shadows as the languid afternoon sun announces that it’s time for a drink. The team wears sunny smiles and walks you through the concise food and drink menu – a selection of cocktails made from toddy tapped on the property just that morning, and the finest Sri Lankan arrack and an impressive array of mouth-watering local dishes reimagined for today but unmistakably reminiscent of kitchens in every Sri Lankan home for several decades.
So why is this little bar and kitchen tucked away in a sleepy village in Sri Lanka so important?
Sri Lankan Arrack is one of the world’s oldest spirits with the earliest written mention of Arrack from Sri Lanka appearing in Marco Polo’s 13th-century travelogue, Il Milione. This historic spirit is considered among the oldest globally, possibly predating Russian vodka. Arrack is a 100% natural spirit made from the sap of the coconut flower. The traditional method of collecting this sap, known as ‘toddy tapping,’ involves a process of hand-harvesting from tall coconut trees—an intricate and mesmerising craft to observe. The expertise involved in crafting this “drink of the gods” has been handed down through four generations and remains largely unchanged. Toddy Tappers, equipped with remarkable agility and skill, climb the treetops to gather the sap (toddy), which is then naturally fermented at local distilleries before being bottled for enjoyment as arrack.
Unfortunately, toddy tapping is a dwindling craft with only about 200 toddy tappers remaining in the trade today. To be able to witness a toddy tapper skilfully tap the trees twice a day at Raa is not only special and rare, but crucial to educating the world about the craft and the need to preserve it. At Raa, 62 year old resident toddy tapper Gamini Jayasekara skillfully ascends the towering palms that line the property every morning and evening to collect this fragrant nectar that is so sacred to the land. He does this with ceremony, ritual, and commitment to the craft his forefathers taught him.
The bounty is then filtered and used to craft fresh cocktails for those who please but we recommend starting with the signature serve – toddy on ice with a salt & pepper rim.
The bar team, under Don’s able guidance, have done their best to pay tribute to toddy and arrack by marrying them with local and complementing flavours that bring out the best in the spirit. There are some standout drinks on Raa’s menu like the Kottamba Toddy which is a blend of freshly tapped toddy, spiced arrack, sea almond orgeat, and Angostura. Each sip is an explosion of island goodness and the freshness of a warm summer day.
Another favourite of ours is the Sunburn, which as the name suggests, is a fiery blend of fresh toddy, clarified arrack, spicy sambol mix (a well known Sri Lankan condiment), tomato, and coriander. This drink is as unlike a Bloody Mary as it is like one but in our opinion, it’s the best version of it you’ll ever have.
To complement the balmy afternoons and evenings in this idyllic spot, the kitchen serves up some nostalgic treats. Plates of fresh seafood that fill your heart with happiness and meats that are cooked to perfection on wood fire and earthen ovens by Lalla and his wonderful team will keep you content for hours.
As Raa prepares to open its doors, we must applaud the team’s unwavering dedication. Despite Sri Lanka’s history of civil war, severe political instability, an economically devastating pandemic, and ongoing challenges with regressive policies and inadequate social protection, this team—like many respected Sri Lankan entrepreneurs—has remained resolute and undeterred.
Raa offers more than just exceptional drinks and food—it’s a heartfelt celebration of Sri Lankan culture and a tribute to the island and its people. Each dish and cocktail at Raa reflects a profound connection to the land, sea, soil, and community. As you enjoy the soothing sounds of the ocean and watch Gamini skillfully tap the coconut trees, you’ll find yourself reflecting on the deep sense of belonging and the importance of cultural pride.
We urge you to add Raa to your Sri Lanka plans, and witness this wonderful aspect of Sri Lankan culture over great plates of food and fantastic drinks – we can’t think of a better way to enjoy the island.
Factsheet:
Location: Hiritikeya (10 mins ride from Smoke & Bitters)
Distance from the airport: 200 km
Where to stay: There are some nice B&Bs in the area as well as some hotels. Check out Cove Inn, La Playa, and Dots Bay House.
The area offers surf lessons, yoga classes, and has a bunch of great cafes and co-working spaces. Tonic Day Spa offers great massages and treatments.
Bonus: Raa & Smoke & Bitters are both pet friendly and usually have a few local furry friends hanging around.
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